![]() ![]() I also drove through many puddles of water attempting to clear winter salt and mud off of under car. ![]() The brake light switch was done poorly, wires are not secured or taped back up. The brake light switch and shifting/brake light fuse (blown) both replaced. New parts prior to problem were: The Starter and Thermostat had been changed BUT coolant system had NOT been bled. The fuel pump clicks on every time tested. He opened cap to test fuel pump pressure and fuel came out steady. He did a test spraying ether in the air flow or injectors and car ran. I paid a mobile mechanic for 6 hrs to troubleshoot with no answers then bad alternator. weather after driving 5 miles 2 gallons Antifreeze poured out of resivore cap. It did shutter a couple of times post filling up tank. I had just filled up gas tank, then drove 80 miles. First time working with this fuel line.Have a No-Start or runs & stalls out (dies) while driving. My solution might work after tightening some trouble spots, but it was honestly a shot in the dark. Is it possible to remove the original fuel line where it comes out from under the car, and put a replacement fuel line in to simplify this? Link is to the assembly pulled from rockford auto parts. Now, my question is: without replacing the entire fuel line assembly, how can I make sure everything is connected properly and not waiting to pop off while driving? It's a hose that covers the fuel line, and there's a clip that attached to the engine bay to keep the line in place. The other end of the FPR connects to the fuel rail both ends hose clamped. The other end of the line union leads to the FPR hose clamped. A hose clamp goes over the 'shield', and secures the fuel line to the line union. The fuel line attaches to the 5/16" line union. ![]() The fuel line 'shield'* covers the fuel line. It sort of worked, but I might need to expand the end of the fuel line a little deeper, so the entire line union will fit. The line unions, I heated up one with a torch to try to spread out the tip of the fuel line. The line unions basically have the same sized nozzles as the FPR and fuel rail, but it is longer and serves as a coupler between the lines. I also bought a 2 pack of Dorman quick connect 5/16" line unions. I bought the same type of replacement hose that was used to connect the FPR to the fuel rail. In an attempt to fix this, here's what I've done today: The fuel line is hard plastic, so squeezing the pressure regulator back in to the line can easily lead to a leak The fuel line barely comes out of the engine bay Where the fuel line comes out of the rest of the fuel system however, it's a mess. Clamps secure it pretty well to the nozzles as necessary. I had to buy a replacement hose to connect the FPR to the fuel rail, and it seems to work so far. ![]() So, in an effort to get this all back to normal, I tried to get it as close to original as possible. To make matters worse, the new setup for the lines was horrible random scrap hoses and clamps put together on this questionable variable PSI setting FPR. Well, I came back to find out that the fuel line was cut significantly shorter than it was originally, and where it connects to the fuel rail, the line was bent/kinked beyond repair. I offhandedly said that around my 'assistant' I'll refer to this person as, and while I was gone, they decided to try to replace the FPR with good intentions. While trying to get to the bottom of some trouble codes and poor idling/engine bogging issues last week, without thinking, I questioned the fuel pressure regulator in my Taurus. ![]()
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